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Piecing Together the History of Nintendo NES Game Box & Cartridges: Here are Some Clues to Use When Dating & Authenticating NES Boxed Games & Cartridges
- Promotional Copy in the USA
*A note about Box Flap Codes: Game codes seem to have been introduced to the box flaps of games sometime in the year 1987. Box flaps often feature a numeric code on them that seems to correspond to the date of production. Example: “81021” would translate to October 21, 1988. The first number indicates the year digit, which is followed by the month, then day. Please note that the earliest variations of black box games do not feature a code on the box flaps.
Dating the PCB Chips: Clues Inside the Cartridge
Say you don’t have a box to work with and you’re wondering when your game might have been produced. Or say you would like to confirm that the PCB inside your game is authentic and a likely match to the box that came with your game. Well, good news! You can peek at the game’s printed circuit board and find a date on its chips, most of the time.
The date format can vary by game.
Some chips use a YMW format, indicating the year, then month, then week of the month. For example, 5K2 corresponds to week 2 of October 1985. How did we get October? K is the 10th letter of the alphabet, and October is the 10th month of the year.
Other chips use a YW format, indicating the year then the week of the year. For example, 8549 would indicate the 49th week of 1985, approximatel
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Indicators that your Super Nintendo Console is a Rare 1-CHIP Model
Is my SNES a 1 Chip model? The very first Super Nintendo system was released in 1991 in North America. The Super Nintendo console delighted video game enthusiasts with its improved sound, visuals, and accompanying game library.
Although even the first Super Nintendo was groundbreaking in these areas, a later model released around 1995 called the "1-CHIP" SNES was especially pioneering. The motherboard design of the 1-CHIP SNES enables it to output better graphics than earlier revisions of this Nintendo system. The 1-CHIP is highly sought after by collectors because it offers some of the best gameplay visuals you can get on a Super Nintendo. It is also somewhat rare to find, which makes treasure hunting for it even more thrilling!
Prior to the year 1995 or so, Nintendo designed their Super Nintendo console motherboards so that they used 3 chips for graphics and central processing. These three chips are called the CPU, PPU1, and PPU2. When Nintendo revised the SNES motherboard around 1995, all 3 of these chips were combined into one single chip called the S-CPUN. This hardware change is what gave this model of the SNES more graphics processing power.
How do I know if my SNES is a 1-CHIP version?
1. Look at the serial number.
The serial number barcode is printed on a sticker located on the bottom of the console beneath a barcode.
One obvious indicator that you may have a SNES with a 1-CHIP motherboard design is if the console's serial number begins with "UN3". A 1-CHIP SNES serial number will always start with a UN3. However,
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The Basic Essentials of Soldering when it Comes to Gaming Systems and Video Game Save batteries.
Soldering can be scary for a lot of people at first. My first SNES save battery took me at least 50 minutes! Vegas Stakes! Now, it usually takes me 5 minutes. I wasn’t using the right equipment and obviously people tend to get better with practice. These are some suggestions for setting yourself up to solder!
- Buy a nice solder station. (Usually, will come with a roll of solder roll)
- Use the appropriate solder. (some elements work better with electronics than others) We recommend a 60 percent amount of tin and 40 percent lead.
- Use copper desoldering wick/braid with flux. (We recommend 2.4mm in width)
- Have flux handy! (No-clean flux preferred)
- Isopropyl alcohol. (preferred percentage minimum of 90%)
- Q-tips.
Let’s start with something simple:
- Power on your soldering station to approximately 600 to 650 Farenheit (You can use lower temperatures).
- Place your no clean flux on the old solder you want to remove.
- Cut a piece of copper wick braid to use for desoldering
- Copper conducts electricity, so be prepared for the braid to become hot
- Once your soldering iron is at the correct temperature place it over the old solder and hold it into place until you see the old solder s
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A Collector or Player's Guide to the Original Sonic the Hedgehog Sega Genesis Variants
When it comes to retro gaming, few franchises evoke as much nostalgia as Sonic the Hedgehog. Released in 1991 for the Sega Genesis, Sonic the Hedgehog not only revolutionized platforming games but also became a cornerstone of Sega’s marketing efforts during the 16-bit console wars. Collectors of retro games often find themselves fascinated by the different retail variants of Sonic the Hedgehog cartridges and cases, including the original release, the second print run, and the iconic “Not For Resale” edition. This blog dives into the differences among these versions, examining their inserts, case designs, and how they were originally distributed.
The “Not For Resale” variant is significantly less expensive than the “Retail” version of the first Sonic game. Usually when we see a “Not For Resale” on a game cartridge we see $$$, but it is the complete opposite in the case of Sonic The Hedgehog for the Sega Genesis! Many people assume that the NFS version is more valuable and often you’ll see on local marketplaces that they jack the price up on these, but if you look hard enough, you can snatch up a Retail version for way less than on Ebay or Mercari. I have noticed that a lot of video game stores do not price these variants differently.
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The NES and SNES Classic Editions: A Nostalgic Journey and the Frenzy of Finding Them!
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Every Mario Kart Video Game Ever Released and Their Own Unique Appeal!
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The Historical Tetris Saga: From Soviet Origins to Gaming Phenomen!
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The Colors of Nostalgia: Why are Some NES Game Boards Blue and Others are Green?
Identifying Authentic NES Games
When evaluating the authenticity of an NES game based on its board color, there are several indicators to look for:
- Board Color: As mentioned, first-party games generally have green boards, while many third-party games are blue. However, this is not a strict rule, so further checks are necessary. So, beware if you get a pink board!
- Solder Points: Authentic NES boards usually have specific patterns of solder points. Counterfeit boards may have different solder configurations or less consistent soldering quality.
- Silkscreening: Check for the silkscreened text on the board. Genuine NES boards will have clear, consistent printing, while fakes might exhibit smudged or poorly printed labels.
- Chip Identification: NES game boards contain specific chips that can help verify authenticity. Use a chip identification tool or cross-reference the chip numbers with known genuine configurations.
- Physical Quality: Authentic boards tend to have a more robust feel and better craftsmanship than counterfeit versions. Check for overall build quality, including the thickness of the board and the quality of the cartridge shell.
- Weight: Counterfeit games are often lighter due to the use of inferior materials. If a game feels unusually light, it might be worth investigating further.
The blue and green colors of NES game boards are more than just aesthetic choices; they reflect the complex history of video game manufacturing and the evolution of the NES itself. For collectors and fans, understanding these differences not only adds depth to their appreciation of the games but also aids in identifying authentic titles from potential fakes. As the NES continues to captivate new generations, these small details remind us of the enduring legacy